(Being) Jewish in Germany

As I walk down the street from our current residence to the subway, I could be pretty much anywhere in Europe. Well actually, I have only ever visited a few European cities outside of Germany: Salzburg, Madrid, Toledo, Aranjuez, and the Rheinfall in Switzerland. But, I imagine other big European cities to be just like München. Exploring our new Stadt, I pass hundreds of cafes, shops, churches, apartment buildings, and old buildings... lots of old buildings:

Old Town Hall, Munich
(Built in 1474)

"New" Town Hall, Munich
(Built between 1867-1908)

However, every once in a while I pass something that looks eerily familiar:

Odeonsplatz, Munich
(It was at Odeonsplatz on November 9, 1923, that Hitler attempted to bring down the Weimar Republic. Hitler's attempt was unsuccessful and he was sentenced to five years in jail. However, he only ended up serving nine months and it was in that time that he wrote Mein Kampf.)

Wait! I stop in my tracks. Where have I seen this [insert: building, square, gate, statue, street name] before? Oh yeah, that's right, in one of my Sunday school or college classes about the Holocaust.

Hmmm...I think to myself...

How am I reacting to this place or thing? How am I supposed to react to it? Should I be angry, sad, scared, upset? All of the above? Or, none of the above?

When Steve and I first traveled to Germany two summers ago, it was nothing like I imagined. Before our trip, the only pictures I had seen of Germany were from Holocaust books and films. On the plane I imagined landing in a country painted in black and white. Literally.

However, driving to Sulzheim (a tiny village and home of Steve's high school host family) from the Frankfurt airport was a wake-up call. In fact, Germany was not black and white, but painted green and blue and yellow and orange and all of the colors of the rainbow. On our drive we saw skyscrapers and fast trains, gorgeous fields and small villages. It was clear, Germany was recovering from its past; but had I?

No. At least, I didn't think so...

Thus, I spent visits the next two summers trekking from Holocaust memorials to Jewish museums, from old-burned down synagogue sites to newly renovated synagogue replicas, and from mass graveyards to new Jewish cemeteries trying to come to terms with everything. Steve even pointed out gold plaques thrust between the sidewalk cement in Freiburg marking where Jews had once lived and sadly stating what happened to each during the War.

Through my journey I came to recognize that Germany is still working to recreate its image as well as physically rebuild itself from war destruction. Additionally, Germany has not yet come to terms with its history, but is working on a way to move past the past without forgetting it.

Now, after my previous ramblings, as I walk by these places reminiscent of a darker time, I stop and I remember. Sometimes I dwell too. But, I am making an effort to also move past the past. Living here this year, it is my goal to stop dwelling (most of the time) and start enjoying our new adventure here in the present.

Last week, Steve and I attended Yom Kippur services in Munich. For me, walking into a synagogue here and being part of the community was the perfect transition from dwelling, to remembering and moving forward.